Usumacinta River Trip, April 10-20, 2007
Conservation of the Culture and Nature of the Maya forest
Exploring Piedras Negras (and playing Indiana Jones!)
The Usumacinta River is the wild boundary between Chiapas in Mexico, and the northwest Peten of Guatemala. Not only is the area a rich biosphere of old-growth tropical forest, it is also home to some of the most impressive, and least-visited, sites in the Mayan world.
We are proud to offer this itinerary, a rare opportunity to explore this unique and threatened area, and see some of the wildest terrain, and most impressive ancient culture, in the western hemisphere. In addition, we are also proud that Anabel Ford, a noted Maya archaeologist, will be our expert guide for this trip.
(More about Ms. Ford can be found here)
We hope you can join us in April!
For more information on some of the archaeological sites we will visit, click here
Usumacinta River Trip, April 10-20, 2007
Detailed Itinerary
** DAY 1/April 10 FLORES to DOS PILAS (Meals included: lunch (L), dinner (D)) Transport 4WD, Lunch at Dos Pilas
Early overland departure thru frontier town of Sayaxché, on the banks of Río Pasión, and then on to Dos Pilas. Arrive after midday for initial encounter with sites of Petexbatún region, extensively studied during the Petexbatún project, 1989 to present. Late afternoon devoted to studying the as yet unrestored important site of Dos Pilas
Flores to Dos Pilas = 2 1/2 hours by 4-wheel (depending on the conditions sometimes we have to walk 1 km to the site sometimes we can drive right to the site.)
At the glyph stairway, Dos Pilas
DOS PILAS - Means "Two Pools" in Spanish and was named after two springs near the ruins that look a bit like water tanks. The ruins lie about 10 miles southwest of Sayaxché in the Río de la Pasión region. Dos Pilas is a Late Classic site. At the site there are two concentric walls and 16 well preserved carved stelae. Other carvings and a network of caves have also been found. The site contains 19 altars, 19 panels, a hieroglyphic bench, and 4 hieroglyphic stairways. Depictions of captives kneeling at the feet of a ruler, is a common image. The most beautiful sculpture of Dos Pilas is called the Red Stela because it retains red, blue, and yellow colored stucco. Ceramic artifacts were recently found in a tomb. Much of the site has not been excavated. The stelae at Dos Pilas tell us that in the Late Classic its rulers resorted to warfare in order to expand their domains in the region. This may be the same information recorded at Aguateca, and it proclaims the victory of the Lord of Pilas over Ceibal on the third of December, 735 A.D. It is thought that Dos Pilas was abandoned due to these constant wars.
Dinner and overnight camp within the ruins.
** DAY 2/April 11 DOS PILAS to PETEXBATÚN (B, L,D) Hike, Lunch Dos Pilas
Continue to explore Dos Pilas and neighboring El Duende.
Afternoon trek down to Lake Petexbatún: 12 km. hike goes through the jungle and we’ll explore the adjacent site of Arroyo de Piedra on the way. Time permitting visit the farther ruins of Tamarindito. Our pace is leisurely to ensure complete appreciation of the lush and wild surroundings.
Hike to Petexbatún - 2-3 hours 12 kms (Mostly downhill)
TAMARINDITO - Tamarindito is in the Petexbatún area, on the shore of Lake Petexbatún (south of Sayaxché and La Pasión River) . This site is only accessible by foot, exactly as it was during the Maya civilization, and is considered a very minor site, in a beautiful location.
Bungalow at Chiminos Lodge (our favorite eco-lodge)
Dinner and overnight at the Chiminos Lodge, Isla Chimino. www.chiminosisland.com
** DAY 3/April 12 PETEXBATÚN AREA, AGUATECA (B,L,D) Walking tour Box Lunch at Aguateca
Morning walk within the renovated site of Aguateca where new evidence, available due to an unusual abandonment of the site, is giving us a glimpse of the normal day-to-day life of the ancient Maya.
boat to Aguateca from Chiminos 1 1/2 hours total time visiting site (3-5 hours)
http://magma.nationalgeographic.com/ngm/0305/feature5/index.html?source=33NA
In the grotto at Aguateca
AGUATECA - Aguateca is a large, fortified center from the Late Classic located on the shores of Petexbatún Lake. Ruins lie nine miles south of Sayaxché, and can be reached by water. However, at certain times of the year you will need to wade across the shallow parts of the lake. The Petexbatún Lagoon at the entrance of Aguateca is incredibly beautiful. Aguateca's main feature is a series of stelae dedicated to its rulers. It has been suggested that the combined armies of this site and nearby Dos Pilas brought about the downfall of neighboring Altar de Sacrificios. If true, Aguateca could have emerged as master of the Río de la Pasión region, at least for a time. There are still some structures at the site, whose monuments have not yet been explored.
Dinner and overnight at the Chiminos Lodge.
** DAY 4/April 13 LAKE PETEXBATUN to ALTAR DE SACRIFICIOS (B,L,D) Transport motor cayuco Box Lunch at Ceibal
Boat to Ceibal 2 1/2 hours, 15 mins walk to entrance (all uphill), visiting site (2-4 hours) boat to camp 4-5 hours
Breakfast, return to Sayaxché and take motorized cayuco up Pasión river to explore intriguing ruins of CEIBAL. Boat ride gives us an opportunity to view Cormorants, Blue Herons, and Belted or Green Kingfishers. On a short 20-30 min. hike through the lush forest, our pace is leisurely to marvel at the Imperial Woodpecker, Mealy Parrots, and incredible diverse plant life found in a guarded rain forest.
Spend all morning at Ceibal site to study the unusual stelae and experience the surrounding rain forest’s flora and fauna.
CEIBAL – Ceibal, also known as 'The Gallery of Maya Art,' lies on a hill overlooking the Río de la Pasión. The site is renowned for having its emblematic glyph identified and for its ceramics. Ceramic clay vessels show painted figures of men and women, and are regarded as very high quality. The site was at its peak from 700 and 900 A.D. Some of the monuments and buildings clearly reflect outside influences and perhaps this emergence was due to the arrival of intruders, called Putúns, from the coast of the Gulf of Mexico or the Yucatán. Stelae at Ceibal depict Maya ruler-priests both with Classic features and foreign elements. One stelae may possibly be the clearest demonstration of the relationship between the Maya inhabitants and the invaders. On this particular stelae, a dignitary is dressed in the Maya Classic style and holds a puppet staff (the symbol of state), upside down, and has his right hand placed against his chest in a gesture of submission. To his side, there is another personage with long hair who grips a curved club, and whose facial features are obviously not Classic Maya. It may well be that this stelae commemorates the surrender of the Maya Classic inhabitants of Ceibal, to invaders. One of the most beautiful and best-preserved stelae of the Post-classic period can be found here, along with ceramic pieces and anthropomorphic pottery figurines. The first settlements at Ceibal are quite old and date back as far as 800 BC.
Lunch, return to boat for enjoyable ride down the Pasión river, delighting in many sightings of River Turtles, Parrots, Egrets, Cormorants and Herons and the occasional Caiman river crocodile.
Dinner and camp along shores of Rio Pasión, close to site of Altar de Sacrificios.
** DAY 5/April 14 ALTAR to PLANCHON DE LAS FIGURAS (B,L,D) Transport motor cayuco Lunch at Altar or at Chorros on the river
Early breakfast and morning visitation of site Altar de Sacrificios. See new replicas of some of the stelae and altars, and the newly excavated temple at the site, first explored by the Harvard Project in the 1960s.
Investigating a stela at Altar de los Sacrificios
ALTAR DE SACRIFICIOS - Altar de Sacrificios is located west of Ceibal, very near the Río Usumacinta River, adjacent to the Mexican border by Chiapas. 'Altar' is a relatively small site when compared with larger ceremonial centers in the surrounding area. It became at one point, the capital of the region around Guatemala's Río de la Pasión. It owed its prominence partly to its position as a crossroads for trade with Chiapas and Guatemala. Although it had a long history and had been the regional capital since 455 A.D., its zenith came later, between 613 and 771 A.D., centuries in which construction works and stelae production flourished. Thereafter, the site gradually declined. The last date recorded at the site corresponds to the Christian year 910 A.D.
Continue down Usumacinta River to Planchón de Las Figuras, where we will see etched-out carvings at Planchón de Las Figuras. These are large figures of various sizes depicting pyramids, humans, animals and game boards on a large flat rock that is on the shore, and is underwater when river levels are higher.
Camp near Planchon de las Figuras.
** DAY 6/April 15 PLANCHON DE LAS FIGURAS to PIEDRAS NEGRAS (B,L,D)
Motorized canoe down river past Frontera Corozal and Yaxchilan, directly to Piedras Negras. Explore possible portage route nearby. If time permits, see Busilja, a tributary of the Usumacinta.
Camp close to beach, near entrance to archaeological site.
** DAY 7/April 16 PIEDRAS NEGRAS (B,L,D) Walking tour Sack Lunch in PN
Spend all day exploring Piedras Negras.
Lunch within the site under the cool forest canopy.
Return to camp and enjoy a refreshing swim in the waters of the Usumacinta!
Planning our next move in Group "J", Piedras Negras
PIEDRAS NEGRAS - Name means "Black Rocks" in Spanish, from the color of stones in the river. Piedras Negras is in a remote part of Guatemala on a point of land bordered on the south and west by Chiapas and on the north by Campeche, both states of Mexico. The site is located on the banks of the Usumacinta River, downstream from the ruins of Yaxchilan. The ruins at Piedras Negras are large, and it is thought to have been a major power in its heyday, possibly allied with Yaxchilán. The site is not very well preserved compared to Yaxchilan.
http://www.famsi.org/research/piedras_negras/pn_project/piedras_negras.htm
Camp close to archaeological site.
** DAY 8/April 17 PIEDRAS NEGRAS to YAXCHILAN (B,L,D) Transport motor cayuco Lunch on the river
Return up river via motor cayuco to Yaxchilan. Day is devoted to exploring the extensive ruins and the many finely-carved stelae of this well-preserved and important site. Upriver travel 6-8 hours
YAXCHILAN - This was a large center, important throughout the Classic era, and the dominant power of the Usumacinta area. It dominated such smaller sites as Bonampak, and was long allied with Piedras Negras and at least for a time with Tikal; it was a rival of Palenque, with which Yaxchilan warred in 654. Yat-Balam, founder of a long dynasty, took the throne on 2 August, 320 when Yaxchilan was a minor site. The city-state grew to a regional capital and the dynasty lasted into the early 9th century. Yaxchilan had its greatest power during the long reign of King Shield Jaguar II, who died in his 90s in 742. Yaxchilan is known for the large quantity of excellent sculpture at the site.
Just one example of the incredible carving at Yaxchilan (depicting a transfer of power)
http://yaxchilan.quickseek.com/
http://www.travelchiapas.com/arc/site-3b.php
Reading:
Yaxchilan: The Design of a Maya Ceremonial City By Carolyn E. Tate
Lunch at the site.
Camp on beach just beyond landing.
** DAY 9/April 18 YAXCHILAN to FRONTERA COROZAL/Bethel (B,L,D) Transport motor cayuco Sack Lunch in Yaxchilan
Continue to explore beautiful setting of Yaxchilan.
After lunch, return UP river to Mexican border crossing and stepping-off-point to Bonampak, Frontera Corozal.
Exit Guatemala, formally enter México. Have passports and $22 tourist visa ready for officials.
Dinner and overnight at exotic Hotel Escudo Jaguar!
Boat to Yaxchilan 30 mins to 2 hours. (depends on where we camp) All day visiting Yaxchilan, boat to Escudo Jaguar 1 hour
www.igougo.com/travelcontent/journalEntryDining.aspx?Mode=3&ReviewID=1037133
** DAY 10/April 19 FRONTERA COROZAL to BONAMPAK to FLORES (B,L,D) Transport motor bus Sack lunch in Bonampak or at Hotel Escudo Jaguar
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bonampak
http://www.emergenceconference.com/bonampak.html
Drive to Bonampak 1 1/2 - 2 hours. 1-2 hours visiting site. boat to bethel 30 mins. Van to Flores 3-5 hours
a) Bus for 2 hr. ride to site of BONAMPAK.
Bonampak is not fully excavated, much still covered by rainforest. One of the most amazing finds at Bonampak is the three rooms of murals depicting important ceremonial and political events. Here we find some of the best preserved examples of the painted art of the Maya Experience these finely-painted murals depicting the gruesome torturing and bloodletting rituals performed by the Maya.
Ceremonial procession on Bonampak mural
b) Bus return to Frontera Corozal, 2 hr.
c) Boat Frontera Corozal to Bethel; up Usumacinta; cross back to Guatemala @ Bethel
d) Bus Bethel to Flores, 2 hr.
overnight at Hotel Petén Flores.
** DAY 11/April 20 Departure from Flores (or extend your trip to visit Tikal, Yaxha, Belize, etc)
Thanks for exploring the Usumacinta River region with us!
Trip price Includes:
All hotels based on double occupancy (single supplement is $100 more),
Tents (with mosquito netting) for 2 people with sleeping pads, sheets and blankets (the pads are double ridge rest foam, so some people bring an inflatable camping pad),
All meals starting from lunch day 1 to dinner day 10,
Potable water with our katadyn filtration system,
All communal camping and kitchen equipment,
All safety equipment for river and first aid,
Water resistant bags for personal gear,
All entrance fees to sites, including Lacandon community fees,
Bilingual guide,
Taxes and fees
Trip price does not include:
Personal expenses at hotels and restaurants,
Alcoholic beverages,
Tips,
Immigrations fees ($22 USD in Mexico and $2 USD in Guatemala),
Airfare/transport from your gateway city Flores (pre/post trip arrangements can be made for supplemental visits to Tikal, Yaxha, Belize, etc)
Trip price:
$1695, per person, double occupancy
(25% deposit required to confirm your space, with the balance due 45 days before trip)
To request more information about this great trip, please send us an email
More about our accompanying archaeologist:
Anabel Ford has distinguished her as a Mesoamerican
archaeologist in the field of settlement and environmental studies of the
lowland Maya of Guatemala and Belize. Her landmark study of the settlement
patterns between Tikal and Yaxhá in Guatemala has challenged the perceptions of
rural and urban divides, demonstrating that preferred locations for farming
settlements are equally occupied where near or far from centers. Living in the
Maya forest for her dissertation field work and relying on the resources that
were native to that place, she gained an appreciation for the local knowledge of
and economic value inherent in the jungle. Her current focus at El Pilar, a new
tour destination in the Maya world, integrates her growing academic knowledge of
the region’s ancient occupants and her investment in the living people of
region. Over the past ten years, Anabel Ford has spearheaded a unique
development that focuses on one cultural and natural resource in two countries.
The model development of El Pilar is an inclusive management design with
government protection, local leadership and community participation, along with
academic research input.
Additional information about archaeological sites to be visited
PIEDRAS NEGRAS
What we know of Piedras Negras is more tantalizing than satisfying.
Many of the ceramics from the early excavations were lost or their
provenience (find-spots) garbled. Of forty or more test pits made in
the 1930s, only a handful possess any surviving records.
Many of the ceramics from the early excavations consisted of clearance, sometimes unsupervised by archaeologist, of walls and platforms edges around buildings... virtual nothing is known about the more modest settlement at the site. We do not know how the population supported itself, much less how the landscape around the site was used.
The origins of the site, represented by early temples and
hieroglyphic
texts are as murky as our understandings of how and why Piedras
Negras developed through time. The discovery of substantial burning
and violent destruction of monuments in the Palace at Piedras Negras
raises important questions about the nature of the Maya collapse.
Unfortunately, the information collected by the University
Museum in
the 1930's does not allow us to understand clearly what happened at
the time. After one year of renewed excavations, the results from the 1997 test digs
raises more questions as to the social structure of the
inhabitants of Piedras Negras. 1998 season brought studies of the
West Group Plaza and the surrounding outlying area. The 1999 season
located a mixed cemetery where evidence of a Sahal (noble vassal)
burial was found. This lends credence to the change in political
structure during the late classic period.
The rediscovery of the largest known cenote of Mesoamerica at
Piedras Negras, although now dry, leads credence to why Yokib, a large opening, was chosen
for the emblem glyph of this large city-state. Reconstruction of various buildings
continues.
YAXCHILAN
This formidable defensive sight is located in the "island" formed by
the Usumacinta river bending in a horseshoe configuration. It was
rediscovered by following the Lacandon Indians who made pilgrimages
to its ritual center. Yaxchilan stelae date from 450-800 ad. and
show a great variety of format and subject matter.
According to Carolyn E. Tate, "The Maya... conceived the
imagery of each monument in relation to meanings woven by symbols.. it was clear that
cultural ideals and community identity were being forged through art. The city
[Yaxchilan] itself was the work of art, not one which was
passively admired, but one whose creation attracted ideal order into
the lives of its inhabitants"
BONAMPAK
The murals of Bonampak are vibrant with the colors used by the Maya
in their art. There are three rooms which graphically show scenes of
celebration, battle, and sacrifice. The scenes of pomp, warfare
and intimacy helped Mayanists shape an image of the true life the Maya
elite led. Now it is possible to drive to the site on our way to
Palenque after visiting Piedras Negras or Yaxchilan.
PLANCHÓN DE LAS FIGURAS
A long obscure Maya site, Planchón de las Figuras is only visible
during the low water months of March through early June. It is a
large rock beach where nearly 70 eroded carvings depicting animals,
humans, mysterious spiral and large temples pyramids, similar to
those of Tikal. These carvings etched out of the stone have survived
the centuries even though they are covered by the waters of the
Lacantun river for nearly 9 months out of the year. Perhaps they are
the graffiti of Maya traders who traveled this route between Altar
de Sacrificios and Yaxchilan.
ALTAR DE LOS SACRIFICIOS
At the time of its excavation this site revealed extraordinary
burials with various ceramic plates covering the heads of the
deceased in what seems a form of ritual protection. All have been
removed or reburied. The site has been abandoned and actually
farmed. The stelae and altars we see are of a unique sandstone
unlike the limestone of other sites. The last excavation left
various open test digs which enables us to examine the typical
"fill" style of the Maya as many broken chards and obsidian flakes
protrude from the now rain eroded walls.
TIKAL (available before or after trip):
The massive ruins of TIKAL are concentrated at the center of the
TIKAL NATIONAL PARK. (222 square miles). The park is full of trails
that lead to all the major archaeological groups like the Great
Plaza, Temple 1 (Temple of the great Jaguar), Temple 2,3 and 4, The
Lost World, and Inscriptions Temple.
The richness of the forest in the area of TIKAL ranges from
huge trees with heights of up to 150 feet to a great variety of low and high ferns.
Regarding bird watching, some two hundred and eighty-five species of birds have been
recorded in TIKAL. Please ask us about bird watching trips to Tikal, the Petexbatun
area and Rio Azul, by top guides working on site at these Natural and archaeological
reserves.
To request more information about this great trip, please send us an email